Enlightened Planet

Organic Cotton on the Fashion Runway

Friday, September 18, 2009 by Marie Oser
 Conventional Cotton farming uses many of the most hazardous pesticides on the market, often broad-spectrum organophosphates, pesticides originally developed as toxic nerve agents during World War II. Cotton producers around the world use $2.6 billion worth of these pesticides. According to the Pesticide Action Network North America (PANNA), that represents more than 10 percent of the world’s pesticides and nearly 25 percent of the world’s insecticides.[1]

 

Ironically, massive pesticide spraying actually causes massive pest outbreaks.[2] The boll weevil has been a major cotton pest longer, and has caused greater cash losses, than any other insect in the history of agriculture. Since the mid-twentieth century, all attempts to eliminate boll weevils with pesticides, including DDT, toxaphene and methyl parathion have failed. Many of these efforts have led to major ecosystem imbalance and crop failures. Advocates of continued spraying acknowledge that while the cost could reach $650 million, such expenditures would likely have little effect on the boll weevil.[3]

 

Organic cotton is grown using methods and materials that have minimal impact on the environment. Unlike conventional chemical agriculture, organic farming systems help preserve our air, water and soil, supporting biologically diverse agriculture. These days, organic cotton is showing up in everything from personal care products to home furnishings, all kinds of apparel, toys, diapers and even stationery.

 

The greening of the apparel industry is a trend driven by consumer awareness of health and environmental concerns and the issues surrounding ethical production practices. Organic apparel and home consumer goods are the second fastest-growing category of all organic products, with sales jumping from $85 million in 2003 to $160 million in 2005.  In 2006, sales of organic linens and clothing reached $203 million in the US, a twenty-six percent increase over 2005.[4]

 

The organic movement has made a significant impact on the Food market sector and is making inroads into sustainable apparel and home goods. Manufacturers and niche retailers Nike and Patagonia have joined and mainstream retailers such as Wal-Mart and Nordstrom’s in actively promoting stylish eco-conscious goods.

 

A growing number of designers and manufacturers are marketing goods with sustainable practices, which could include Fair Trade ethical labor practices, certified organic natural fibers, use of low-impact or natural dyes, and minimal or environmentally appropriate packaging.

 

A few years ago Wal-Mart became the biggest purchaser of organic cotton, launching a full-on organic offensive in 2006. However, supply did not seem to meet their demand. The up-front investment required to convert crops to organic is difficult for many farmers. They need to be in the game for three years before their crop can be certified “organic” and profits begin to kick in. Transitional cotton is cotton that has been grown organically, but for less than three years.

 

According to Wal-Mart spokesperson Tara Raddohl, “In order to encourage farmers to switch to organic cotton farming, Wal-Mart purchased more than 12 million pounds of transitional cotton from approximately 1,000 farmers at the same premium cost of certified organic cotton. “We heard from our supplier and other partners … that this was necessary in the market,” Raddohl said. 

"It is about carrying on what has been our legacy: making items accessible to a broad spectrum of consumers.  Our research found that folks said if it (organic clothing) were available and affordably priced, they would be likely to buy it."



 

 

 

 

 

 

 



1.    [1]http://www.panna.org/node/ PANNA promotes elimination of hazardous pesticides and offers solutions that protect people and the environment.

[2] Kevin P. Shea, "The Last Boll Weevil". Environment Vol. 6 No. 5.

[3] The Ecologist Vol. 10 No. 3, March 1980

[4] Organic Trade Association 2007 Manufacturer Survey http://www.ota.com/

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